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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 5:47 pm 
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well had a great day fishing but when time to leave came the boat would not try to start -- aerator was working fine, lights would come on just fine -- took engine cover off and noticed a wire had come loose -- i can take a pick if needed but the wire fit on a stud between the starter bolts -- luckly the nut was sitting in the engine part still -- tightened it back up but still nothing on trying to start all other stuff worked -- so tried swapping batteries and it started up just fine -- well got home and checked main battery and showed 11.6 volts but when would try to start nothing -- back up battery (trolling motor / gps) showed 11.5 but would start the engine just fine -- so guess under a big load the main battery is crapping out and needs replaced -- but main question is does anyone know what that wire (ground wire) goes too? -- like mention it was on a stud between the starter bolts


forgot to mention motor is 130 johnson 95 or 96


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 11:34 am 
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Location: Atascocita
generic wiring diagram below:

Attachment:
starter.JPG
starter.JPG [ 32.51 KiB | Viewed 135 times ]


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:21 pm 
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RocketSurgeon1911 wrote:
generic wiring diagram below:


thanks will probably have to take pic -- this wire isnt part of the starter system, its a ground for something though and goes into wiring harness -- figured might be for charging system or something not sure


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Location: Atascocita
yup, check it with a meter while cranking. Both batteries reading 11.5 volts seems a little suspect. How good is your meter?

At any rate test the battery on the crank while the meter is still connected. if the voltage drops below 9.5V then you probably have a bad one. If it doesnt drop at all but the engine doesn't tick, there may be a wiring issue.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 3:19 pm 
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thanks i took it to autozone and when they tested it it showed battery needed charged but was reading 11.7 volts and fine when just reading it but when testing it would show need charged -- went ahead and replaced it and no issues when out fishing yesterday cranked up fine -- so was something internal on battery i guess but seems to be fixed now


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 4:46 pm 
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FOR JOHNSON 2 stroke V6 Carbureted
or 675 CCA (845 MCA)
24M7
27M6
140, 141
, DP24,
8A24M
9A31
141
, 8A27M
141

what they commend 675 cold cranking amps but the closer you can get to 1000 cold cranking amps
on a new battery the better life you will get from it on a outboard cranking battery.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:16 pm 
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what is the deal with group number and all? -- i done replaced it but i'm sure i will regret it later cause went with cheaper model due to misleading ad -- i picked up battery at sams club -- it is a duracell marine battery group 24 -- think it was 750 mca -- i went there to get the 1000 mca but ad thinking was on sale for 74 something but wasnt correct -- so went with what could afford at the moment


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:52 pm 
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most of that i meant to delete

but those numbers i gave were case size so they would fit your battery box

the small 24 is what is used in most cars

the size 27 and 31 are larger and hold bigger plates and is most common for boats.

here are the measurements.

BCI GROUP NUMBER: 24
Lifeline Battery #: GPL-24T (AGM)
Universal Battery #: UB12750-45821 (AGM)
Trojan Battery #:T24-GEL (GEL)
Universal Battery #:UB24GEL-D5872 (GEL)
DIMENSIONS IN INCHES*: 11.13" 6.60" 9.25" LxWxH
Amp Hours (AH): 80

27BCI GROUP NUMBER: 27
Universal Battery #: UB12900-45826 (AGM)
Lifeline Battery #: GPL-27T (AGM)
Universal Battery #: UB27GEL-D5873 (GEL)
Trojan Batter #: T27-GEL (GEL)
DIMENSIONS IN INCHES*: 12.00" 6.63" 9.06" LxWxH
Amp Hours (AH): 90

31BCI GROUP NUMBER: 30H
BatteryStuff Part #: UB121100-40603
DIMENSIONS IN INCHES*: 13" 6.8" 9.5" LxWxH
Amp Hours (AH): 110

31BCI GROUP NUMBER: 31
Lifeline Battery #: GPL-31XT (AGM)
Lifeline Battery#: GPL-31T (AGM)
MK Battery #: S31SLDG (GEL)
DIMENSIONS IN INCHES*: 12.9" 6.75" 9.27" LxWxH
Amp Hours (AH): 125


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:05 pm 
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I just mentioned this so it may help someone get the proper size battery with correct cranking
amps to crank a big 6 cylinder engine takes a lot .
I for one fish till almost dark most days and sure do not want to have to spend the night
on the water because everyone else has left the lake and sure would not want to
be left out in the bay. because i didn't have the cranking power .
also carry a 12 foot pair of jumper cables in the boat at all times so i can jump from
trolling motor battery to the cranking battery . or jump a friend on the water.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:29 pm 
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Location: Kingwood
Sticko,

Good point on jumper cables. I always just take TM battery loose and connect to motor when I needed it. That is much simpler.....

Thanks,
Raptor


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:31 pm 
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ok thanks i just wondered what the group size thing was and just never knew -- yea last two times i swapped out trolling motor battery to get back but didnt have to this time with new battery -- the jumper cable is something else i thought about and plan on getting and keeping in the boat for just like you mention so can jump someone off or even get a jump if have too -- like i said i sort of hated getting the cheaper duracell (didnt even have time to research them or know if they are good or not) but if nothing else might take it back in few weeks and trade up maybe but it held up good -- only thing that runs off the main battery is live well, nav lights and motor -- everything else runs off 2nd battery


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 11:07 pm 
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The duracell batteries have very good ratings on them from people that run them in autos
I have never had any dealings with a duracell battery.
It may hold up good for you some have 1 year free replacement . The size 24 you have seems
small for a boat not sure how long it will hold up. Might get a year of good use.
Batteries have sure went up in price over the last year. looks like most of them are sealed batteries
I like that you dont have to remember to fill them .


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 12:48 am 
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yea this one has one year free replacement -- like mentioned its working good for now but yea i figured it might be little small for long term -- if it makes a full year i will be happy or if they might let me exchange it for bigger one in next few wks will be fine also -- its a johnson 130 and for now its spinning it over plenty fast enough but time will tell -- heck i didn't even know duracell even made car / boat batteries till seen ad for them there -- lol -- dont do much shopping or at least try not too


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 6:31 am 
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I use, well have to on a 200 hp mercury optipop motor a 1000 CCA battery and use a starting battery as they are for a 30 second blast to get the motor started. I also charge them at least once a month to keep the lead plates from the sulfate that builds up on the lead plates in them as I still run wet cell batts. Also check and add distilled water only as needed every 3 months, only use distilled water as tap water will ruin them in short time due to the chemicals they add to the tap water. Did I mention to use only distilled water in wet cell lead battery's.

I use a 1000 CCA group 27 battery and have for many years with no problems, and run pumps, depth finders thru out the day of fishing with 0 problems. If you run more items on it, then I would go up to a group 27 battery. Keep em charged up and all will be good.

Yes I have a set of jumper cables on boat also as you never know when a battery is gonna go dead.

COLD CRANKING AMPS (CCA)
The CCA rating represents in amps the current flow the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 0o F. without dropping below 1.2 volts per cell (total of 7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). The higher the number, the more amps it can deliver to crank an engine.

MARINE CRANKING AMPS (MCA)
Batteries designed for marine use may be rated at MCA instead of CCA. The MCA rating method measures battery output at 32o F., not 0o F. A battery's MCA rating will be one-third higher than its CCA rating would be.
To compare two batteries when one has an MCA rating and the other has a CCA rating. multiply the CCA rating by 1.3 for the equivalent MCA rating. Or, multiply the MCA rating by 0.77 for the equivalent CCA rating. Example:

500 CCA x 1.3 = 650 MCA
or
650 MCA x 0.77 = 500 CCA


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